Friday, January 31, 2014

Attempts at Redemption


            This is a hard post to write. Morocco has a serious issue with the behavior of its men and boys. While I’ve written before about sexual harassment and gender inequality and their effects on the country’s young men and women, in this post I want to explore this issue from another angle, the standard cultural response to people who cause problems.

            Before I start I need to say two things. Firstly, while this is a major issue I don’t want to leave the impression that this applies to all, or even a majority, of the country’s men and boys. It is a hugely prevalent issue, and one all us volunteers face, but we have allies among the men here. Secondly, just to be clear, I’m not using “culture” as a euphemism for “Islam.” While I’ve heard plenty of “Islamic” justifications for the separation of the sexes (and that ever awful response to sexual harassment, blaming the girl since she was dressed “immodestly, i.e. without a headscarf, i.e. without something that is never specifically encouraged in the Quran), those same people turn right around and make “Islamic” arguments about why boys shouldn’t harass women or be brats. I’ve also heard Islamic arguments saying the exact opposite. An American Muslim friend of mine recently posted a reminder on Facebook, that the prophet Mohammed cooked, cleaned, and took out the trash, so using Islam as a justification for treating women as household slaves is just wrong. The issue is cultural, and while it is a problem across the Islamic world, Islam is not the problem. What preachers need to do is make it part of the solution.

Moving to the issue at hand, I’ve time and time again heard people who act badly described as crazy, or as a brat, or a bully. The crux of it is that they don’t try to deal with the behavioral problem, they explain it away, and they don’t confront the person. I might be over analyzing, but I think this is a direct result of my hobbyhorse pet peeve, corporal punishment of children. Since beating is the most common form of discipline, boys never get used to feeling shame as a punishment. As such, they never learn how to cope with being shamed, and get very upset, sometimes even violent, if you shame them as an adult. When adult men behave badly then you can either try to shame them, which might end in a shouting match or even a fight, or you can go to the old standby and just hit them, which ends in a fight. No one wants to end up in a fight over something stupid, so men and boys who misbehave get away with acting terribly, and get used to it. As such a large group of “men” never really become adults; they’re just larger boys.

I have friends and counterparts who recommend that I buy into this element of the culture, and try to work sideways around intransigent and awful people, the way they do. The good Moroccan men have a knack for getting what they need from the bad ones, without ever calling them out or shaming them in any way. I haven’t learned this tactful skill. I think that not calling people out for their misbehavior creates a culture where they feel comfortable to misbehave. Acting like everything’s fine when it isn’t is a piece of Moroccan theatrics I won’t hold to. As a PCV I’m expected to adopt my host country’s culture as much as possible, but this is a place, as with child beating, that I draw my line.

In site, I’ve tried to deal with misbehaving boys in any number of ways that don’t involve beating. Some I’ve reformed by dangling something ahead of them (you can’t join class today, but if you behave you can come tomorrow). Some I’ve dealt with by giving them trust (you weren’t behaving well, but I’ll trust you’ll do better now). With those boys it can be wonders to give them responsibility (alright, I’m going to teach these girls how to throw the Frisbee, can you work with the younger boys?). Some I just have to punish (you’re not welcome in the Dar Chabab this week). A couple I’ve gone to their parents’ house with them, and then at the last moment seemed to give in to their pleas not to report on them (of course I’m never actually going to tell on them, child beating parents are the problem, but this bit of psychological warfare works occasionally). Some, despite all my methods, just will not improve, and they’ve frustrated me a lot lately.

The impetus for this post was my class the other day where that group of boys kept throwing rocks and dirt clods at the window and through the door of the classroom (again showing how awesome the girls are as they stuck at it despite the problems). The impetus for this post was the other week when walking the girls to my classroom those boys started hooting and hollering at them. I wasn’t paying attention to what they were saying, but one girl responded with a loud and clear “go **** yourselves” in Arabic. The impetus for this post was when they learned “**** you” in English and chanted it after me everywhere I go.

The only way Morocco is going to deal with the problem that is its men is if it confronts the problem head on. Letting bad behavior slide by and maintaining the status quo are easy, but it means almost half of Morocco’s work force will be disempowered while a huge chunk of the other half is incompetent with a superiority complex. I’m approaching the last few months of my service, and to wrap it up I think I can do no better thing than working in this troubling and difficult area. I’m confident enough in my integration that my mudir and I are planning an event to get people talking about the problem of sexual harassment in our town (with a cool resource that I’ll write about when we use it, stay tuned!). At the next school break I’ll be helping another volunteer with his plan to run a camp where boys think about the gender divide in a serious way, while also learning the skills to be functional adults. Lastly, I’m going to keep plugging away with those worst boys, because as this last week proved they aren’t irredeemable, and maybe in these last few months I can reach one or two more of them. Wouldn’t that be something?




Addendum: I can’t even comprehend how much better this last week has been. Additionally, my classes are have gotten back up to their usual numbers, so all kinds of positive motion in the latter part of this week. So I’ll end with a Joha story. This one I actually learned last summer when an older kid presented it as an English play (written by his teacher) at the Khenifra summer camp. Some of my students had just studied food and ordering at a restaurant, so I rewrote a simpler version of the play for them to put on in class. Apparently it’s a classic, because they all recognized it early on. Here is a non-dramatized version of the story:

One day, Joha went to a restaurant. He ordered himself a big meal, with roasted chicken, and rice, and all sorts of treats. At the last moment he asked for some soup. After bringing Joha the food the host went to relax, when suddenly Joha started to shout. “Ugh, what is this?!? This is disgusting!”
The host approached and asked what was wrong.
“There is a bug in my soup!” cried Joha. The host apologized and gave him the meal for free. Joha smiled and thanked the host, but while the host wasn’t looking Joha took the bug out of the soup.
Later, Joha ran into a friend. Joha asked him, “Do you want to eat a large, delicious meal for free?”
“Yes,” said the friend, so Joha brought him close and told him what to do. The friend went to the restaurant, but when he ordered his meal he was told there was no soup.
“Where can I put this bug then?” asked the friend, taking out the insect Joha had given him.
“So it was you!” cried the host, who chased Joha’s friend from the restaurant.

Friday, January 10, 2014

A Summary


            As I’m sure most of my readership knows, I spent the last three weeks (ish) in America visiting family and friends for the holidays. As such, there isn’t too much to write about it terms of my experiences in Morocco. However, I do want to share a couple of anecdotes from before I left and talk about a couple of interesting Morocco and Peace Corps related observations I made while at home.

            Firstly, the week before I left I went to nearby town at a history teacher’s invitation to talk with his students about Moroccan-American relations in terms of the Peace Corps. It was a fun, and I think the students (and the teacher) liked the approach I took, asking students to think of why America might have started the Peace Corps in the 60s, why we continue it now, ect... At the end of the day, though, the students wondered why there isn’t a volunteer in their town, something I couldn’t answer until I discovered that although they had a Dar Chabab built two years ago it has never been opened because there is no mudir. Waste and inertia strike again.

            A few days later I left town, but on my way to Casablanca I stopped at a friend’s site since she and I had discovered we’d accidentally booked the same flight to America and wanted to travel together. Another American development organization (whose name eludes me) had just built toilets at an elementary school in one of the villages outside her town. She had done the same last year, so they asked her to help run a health fair for the students to inaugurate the new toilets. A few other nearby volunteers, she, and I each developed lesson plans for the health fair, but in a neat twist we each partnered with some of her high school students who helped teach the lesson. I was very impressed with the volunteer I worked with, whose English was very strong, and who quickly understood how I liked to teach and actually had taken over the entire delivery of the lesson by the time the last group of students reached us. All of my friend’s students seemed to have similar levels of drive.

            The next day we journeyed out to the coast, visiting the much-storied Casablanca. Even just typing the name gives a sense of romance and mystique, which the city does not deliver on. Not to say I dislike Casablanca, I very much enjoyed the burger joint we went to, just that burger joint would have fit in perfectly in the Lower East Side, which isn’t quite the romantic French colonial capitol in the Muslim world one pictures. That being said, we made our usual hit as Arabic speaking Americans—except in the burger joint, where even all the Moroccans spoke French. Also of note, tons of taxi drivers tried to cheat us, but when we finally found one who would run the meter he turned out to be from the town I’d given the history lesson in earlier in the week. Small world!

            Back in America I talked with a lot of people about life in Morocco in the Peace Corps. Conversations ranged from people who wanted to know more about the hardship of living in a semi-developed country to those who wanted to learn about culture, to those who just wanted details on what exactly I do (besides blog and drink tea). I found it was sometimes hard to explain things about Morocco to people who haven’t lived there for a long time. To be honest, now that I’m writing it, I’m having a hard time explaining what was hard to explain. I hear this is a common problem for returned Peace Corps Volunteers. We see the issues our host country faces, and we want to be honest about them, but at the same time we love the country and don’t want to sell it short when giving a quick talk about it. Maybe I shouldn’t generalize that feeling to all PCVs, but therein lies the problem, knowing when to generalize and when to talk about the nuance that does pervade our host countries. I guess most people would have just as much trouble summarizing the last two years of their lives, they’re just not asked to as often.

            I’m going to wear off that confusing headwind for now and end by saying that I’m safely back in site and was excited to find my students were excited to start back up again. In the past I found it always took awhile to get started again after I’d been away, but this time we jumped right into it. Looking forward to an exciting and fulfilling four months!