Saturday, June 30, 2012

Picnics, Problems, and Parades


          Since my last post I’ve had a lot of ups and downs in very quick succession, less of an emotional rollercoaster than an emotional piston.  At times things are great, and I feel like I’m right where I belong, doing valuable work and serving both my country and Morocco.  Other times I feel like I’m completely out of place, useless, and a waste of both tax payer dollars and Moroccan hospitality.  Some days it really hits me that I’m a more or less untrained, first time teacher trying to teach a difficult language to a group of kids who speak another difficult language that I don’t speak well.  I have students from seven to twenty seven at the same level (mercifully not in the same class) and what teaches one will not work for the other.  Class can sometimes leave me absolutely exhausted and anxious that the students learned nothing.  I also have two fierce competitors for my students’ attention: sif u kora (summer and football).  The blazing heat of the summer midday makes it impossible to focus.  I’ve given up trying to be productive during it and I know my students have too.  Unfortunately this would be optimal review time.  With the heat almost hitting 100 Fahrenheit inside most days the students can’t study, and I can’t expect them too.  This means classes move slowly, as I have to constantly reiterate past lessons before we can move forward.  As for kora, the Euro Cup is on and it’s a huge deal to most Moroccans.  My new advanced class was supposed to meet for the first time on Wednesday, but had to be postponed because Spain was playing and only two kids showed up.  That class is entirely made up of motivated kids, but soccer is an insurmountable obstacle here.  I will be leaving site in early July to help another volunteer with the summer camp at her site (mine is too small for camp).  I’m hoping that this will both help me feel more useful and give me a chance to develop some more lesson plans and activities that will excite and energize my students.

            This is not to say that I’m utterly unhappy with how classes are going.  My beginner class with older girls and young women at the artisanal cooperative is going fantastically.  I’m really excited for when the advanced class actually starts as the students I’ve placed in it know enough that I can teach a discussion based class in English.  It’s just a matter of getting off the ground, which has proved very hard in the summer.  I’m trying to look at it more as an extension of my training period, a time when I get to try new lessons, develop syllabi, work on my Darija, and meet potential counterparts, but I still wish I could feel more useful.

            My Darija is improving, but at a much slower pace than I would like.  I’ve reached a point where I can get through most simple interactions just fine, but while I make a point to bring in new grammar and words it’s hard to study outside of real world conversation.  Part of the reason I cut my students some slack not studying is because of how hard I find it to study here.  During midday lunch break I just can’t focus in the heat.  I sit down to study and within minutes my mind wanders.  I can’t even really read in English then; the same thing happens.  The evenings are cool, but they have to be reserved for having a social life, which literally is part of my job here.  Also, after four hours of teaching I’m usually just to beat to focus on studying.  After some time in the café or hanging out with some students in the public park I don’t get home until around ten thirty or eleven most days and then I have to cook (my local hanut (general store) owner suggests that I get a wife so I won’t have to cook for myself and therefore will be less exhausted).  This leaves me with the morning before my first class at eleven to study, but also to write lesson plans.  I’m looking forward to the fall, when it should be cool enough to use the midday productively again.  Right now I have the unique sensation of not having enough time while at the same time I’m conscious that I’m wasting a big chunk of my day.  It’s very strange.

            O.k. I’m sorry I belied my title and opened with problems rather than picnics, but that word order sounded so much better.  Also, now the rough part of the post is done.  I’m also sorry I used the word “belied,” but I’m reading Nicholas Nickleby and obviously I have no outlet for its Victorian terms with my students, so I have to use them here.  Egads.  I’m actually going to keep the picnic at bay and talk about the parade first, since it happened first.  One morning after class I want on an expedition through the heat to the far side of town to purchase a refrigerator.  I got there too late; it was midday naptime and the door was shut fast.  However, the locked door did not disappoint me since I could hear the strange tones of a traditional Moroccan horn.  I went to investigate.  I saw a large procession proceeding down the town’s main street.  It was almost entirely composed of colorfully attired women except for various drummers and the horn player, though there were a few other men in straw hats sprinkled around.  At the head of the parade there was a cow with a floral garland, obviously dinner’s main course later.  Behind it were various wagons containing wedding gifts, everything ranging from gorgeous kaftans to blankets, to sacrificial sheep, to a few bottles of bleach.  Behind the carts came the women and the musicians.  They shuffled forward, sang, and sometimes stopped as the rhythm picked up so they could dance around the street, car horns screaming as they raced past.  I asked a bystander what was happening. He said it was a wedding parade.  I hope every wedding in town sparks one of these.

            Last Sunday a group of thirteen students (three girls and ten boys) who just graduated high school (making them around 19-20 here) took me with them on a trip to the sources of Oum El Rabia.  Oum El Rabia is the longest non-seasonal river in Morocco.  Although it doesn’t pass through my town it passes through the nearby city of Khenifra, and from there it is possible to quickly reach the springs and waterfalls that start it.  I met the kids at five AM Sunday morning and we stuffed ourselves into a van they had rented to get there.  Renting a car or van in Morocco is not quite like renting a car or van in the States since in States you can reasonably assume that everything will work in your rental vehicle.  Shortly after we started out the latch of the van’s sliding door broke, so we had to hold it shut.  Sometimes one or two of the more adventurous kids would open it and hang outside.  They were very touched that I cared enough about their safety to tell them to get the hell back inside and close the door.  Not touched enough to do it, but touched.  The van also broke down a couple of times going uphill, so we’d all have to get out, watch the boys pretend like they knew what they were doing, see them get lucky and hit the right thing, then keep going until it broke again.  The van had an amazing propensity to break down at beautiful vistas, so it wasn’t all that bad.









            Once we finally got to the sources I got to see how a beach trip works in the mountains.  When we got there we almost had the place to ourselves, but soon it was full of families and other groups trying to get away from the heat.  The springs are icy cold, and although it is literally freezing the air was so hot that all the men and boys and some of the young girls went swimming.  Even the most modest older women, covered from their ankles to the tops of their heads, got their feet wet.  Every group rents a small open hut for themselves, equipped with rugs, a table, and a separate kitchen area.  It was interesting to see in our group that Moroccan gender roles immediately asserted themselves and the girls went straight to the kitchen to start preparing a tagine lunch.  The boys lounged around, except for the one who went for a walk with me around the waterfalls, which were fantastic.  When we got back some of the boys were ready for a swim so we jumped into a small lake and all immediately scrambled to get out of the cold.  The water is so cold that drink venders don’t use freezers there, they just stick their wares into small cisterns filled from the spring. 











When the girls finally did join us in the hut we had a moment of cultural exchange.  One of them noticed I was leaning against a bare wall and gave me her pillow to lean on.  I gave it right back to her and told her “ladies first.”  She stuffed the pillow behind my back while the group told me that in Morocco it was “men first,” especially since I am the American guest.  Tired of the little bits and pieces of daily chauvinism here I put the pillow back behind her and said I wouldn’t take one until all the girls had one.  The boys sitting next to girls quickly sacrificed their cushions, and another one tossed one to me.  The girls were appreciative, and most of the guys laughed at the quirky American.  On the one hand I’m sad that this has been one of my bigger gender role related victories, on the other I’m happy to have any.

            Otherwise, the day was very relaxed.  We sat in the hut, talked in a Darija English patios, ate delicious tagine, took a couple of walks, and every few hours built up the courage for another dunk.  Additionally, tons of other groups brought musical instruments, so it was never too far to find a little live concert.  At one point a group of singers and drummers even started a dance.  A circle of people shuffled and clapped or moved their hands rhythmically, while inside the circle one or two people would energetically run around more or less to the beat.  The kids pulled me into the outer circle, but were unable (despite their best attempts) to make me make a fool of myself in the middle.  I told them I would if one of them would with me, but there were no takers.  The shirtless piratical looking gentleman was just too much competition (and fun to watch) to join in.  After more than twelve hours there we went wended our way back with just the one breakdown.

            Alright, I think that will be all for now.  I probably won’t have another post until after the camp is over, but expect frequent updates after that as it will be Ramadan and there won’t be too much happening to stop me from writing during the day.  The site I’ll be working at is up north near the famously beautiful city of Chefchaouen, so hopefully the next post will be full of pictures of its fabled blue medina!  Check out the post scripts for a request and a Joha story.

P.S. My tutor is looking for a recommendation for websites where he can meet and talk to people all over the world online.  He and a friend host couch surfers whenever they come to town (rarely) and have hung out with the last three PCVs to live in town, but he really wants to meet a wider group of different people from all over the world.  While this request led to a great conversation (in Darija!) about diversity in New York (why I’ve never had to look for this kind of site), my former international roommates, and diversity in Morocco it did not help him learn any place to go.  Any recommendations would be appreciated!

P.P.S. My tutor knows I love Joha stories and sent me this one the other day.  It might be my favorite one now.

Joha once owned a donkey who was without a doubt the finest donkey in the country. Do you think that there is little difference between one donkey and another?  Just listen to the things that Joha’s animal could do.  He could carry a load on his back that was higher and wider than himself.  He would even allow Joha to sit on top of the load without letting him fall.  His strong legs carried Joha safely over the narrowest paths where no one else dared to travel.  He knew when danger was near, and made certain noises to let his master know.  He was very kind to children and he always let them pull his tail and ears. He also knew when someone meant to hurt him, and then he would kick to save himself and his load.

Very often Joha and his donkey took long rides together after their work was finished. They trusted each other and were close friends.  Joha believed that his donkey must have good food in order to do such good work.  So he always took him to the best green fields where the grass was tall and sweet.  The animal grew stronger and stronger.  He loved his food so much that if he did not have it he became very angry.

Now all the neighbors knew that Joha had the best and hardest working donkey.  So if they had an important thing to do, they always asked Joha to let them use his brave donkey.  “Joha,” said one, “you are the finest neighbour in our village.  I’m always proud to tell my friends that I live next to Joha.  You know, I have some wood to take from my house to the other side of town today.  Will you allow me to use your fine donkey?”
“Certainly,” replied Joha, “but do take good care of him.  And remember, you must feed him well.”
“Of course,” laughed the man, as he started to take the donkey away.  But late that night the poor donkey came home tired and hungry.

A week later another neighbor knocked at Joha’s door.  “You may not know this, Joha,” he said, “but my father and yours were great friends.  And once when you were very young my father helped your father in a certain business matter.  I remember him saying that he would always be grateful for my father’s kindness.  Now listen, Joha, my donkey is ill today, but I have an important visit to make in town.  May I ride on your donkey?”
            “Of course,” smiled Joha.  “Give him plenty of good food and he will do anything for you.”  But when the neighbor brought the donkey back, Joha noticed that the animal was angry, and he knew that the man had not fed him at all.

Joha decided to stop lending his donkey to his neighbors.  But Joha was a friendly man and he really could not say no when people asked for help.  One morning Joha saw his neighbor walking up the path to his house.  “Oh dear,” he thought, “he’s going to ask for my donkey, and I need him myself today.”
            “Good morning, Joha,” said the neighbor.  “I came to get your help.”
“I hope I can help you,” came the reply.  “What is your problem?”
            “You see, I have a heavy load of beans to take to market today, but last night my donkey died and I have no way to get to town.”
            “Good neighbor, I wish I could help you, but my donkey is not here,” said Joha.  Just then the donkey brayed in a loud voice, as if he knew that danger was near.

“Joha” said the neighbor, “how can you tell such a lie?  I just heard your donkey bray.”
            “My good man,” said Joha, “do you mean to tell me that you dare to believe my donkey and not me?”

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