Tuesday, October 1, 2013

God Helps Those Who Help Each Other


            The other day I was chatting with a bunch of boys about a little bit of everything.  I want to report bits and pieces of the conversation because I think it will tell you a lot about how some Moroccans perceive the world.  To set the stage, these are four boys who I know very well, two of them are in their last year of high school while the other two are about to start their second year of university.  The two university students are both studying history.  None of the four has much English, but they are patient and willing to explain things in simple Arabic when we hit a roadblock.  One has quite good French, which helps with cognates.  All four are hard working, ambitious, and smart.  None has ever left the country, or, for that matter, travelled all that extensively in the country.

            I can’t remember quite how the conversation began, but it started getting interesting when we began to talk about democracy.  Their initial definition of democracy was a little off; they defined it as “being able to do whatever you want.”  I explained that while everyone should have a voice and a vote (two words which, in Arabic, are almost the same, sot and sout respectively) in a democracy oftentimes many people don’t get to do what they want because the vote is against them.  I then tried to further explain that in many democracies there are also failsafe laws to try to keep a majority group from subjugating a minority group.  In this way even majorities don’t always get to “do whatever they want” in democracies.  I made a tacit attempt to segue into Egypt from here (because I think its important that young people here understand why there was so much anger at the Muslim Brotherhood, anger that has now allowed a much more actively repressive regime to step in), but as I’ve talked about in previous posts there is a staunch refusal here to acknowledge that Morsi ever did anything wrong.

            Quite naturally from this failed segue we segued again into the news and how much you can trust the media.  I believe I’ve mentioned before that many Moroccans don’t trust any news source.  Given how used they are to state run and state censored news this isn’t surprising.  Unfortunately it leads to a tendency to believe in some pretty wild conspiracy theories (which media outlets are a part of).  These boys, like a lot of Moroccans I’ve talked to, would feel at home at a 9/11 Truthers conference, and this is where they steered the conversation next.  I have no patience for this theory, either at home or abroad, so I told the kids we were going to look closely at the possible motives both the U.S. Government and Al Qaeda might have had for attacking the towers, and the risks they would take on doing so.  Anyone who has ever debated a Truther back home knows how lopsided this list becomes, and I can now proudly say that two of the kids now believe Al Qaeda did it, the other two went from staunch believers in a government conspiracy to unsure.  I ended this part of the discussion by saying that while a healthy skepticism in what you read and hear in the media isn’t a bad thing, but a good skeptic doesn’t always write off what they read and hear, they analyze it, compare it to other sources, and use their brain to figure out what makes the most sense.  The boys seemed to like that idea.

            9/11 talk quickly and easily moved to Afghanistan and Iraq, which then moved to us talking about Syria and the recent threat of force and even more recent redaction of the threat.  These boys are pure cynics about United States involvement in Middle Eastern wars.  Interestingly, they don’t question that America ought to act as the world policeman.  I’d always thought it was only a small group of Americans who thought that was America’s duty.  These kids though think it is America’s duty, as the superpower, to keep order.  Whatever ought to be, though, they also think that America is bungling this duty.  In the case of Syria their anger is that we didn’t strike.  While I can’t speak for all of them, from other conversations I know at least one of these boys does not discriminate against Shia Muslims (Assad’s sect is a subgroup of the Shia), so for at least one of them the Sunni-Shia divide was not coloring this call for action.  We talked for awhile then about reasons for the U.S. not attacking, and past U.S. interventions and invasions (specifically, Libya, Iraq, Afghanistan, and Kosovo, which they knew a surprising amount about).  This got us talking about self-serving and altruistic national urges and how sometimes both of these can be present in an international action.

            This led to talking about the purpose of the Peace Corps itself.  I told them both about the more “self-serving” element (a way to peacefully swing countries out of Soviet influence, now a way to better America’s image in the world) and the altruistic elements of Peace Corps three stated goals: to pass on technical skills to people in the developing world who want them, to better other people’s understanding of Americans and American culture, to better American’s understanding of other peoples and other peoples’ cultures.  They liked that I mentioned both sides of the coin.  Then they asked what my opinion of the youth in their town is after having lived here almost a year and a half.

            I started by saying it is of course very hard to generalize, but if I had to I could divide the boys into two roughly equal groups: the group that works hard and the lazy bums.  I could do the same with the girls, I said, only then the groups aren’t equal, the vast majority of girls fall into the hard working group.  I told them I think this is because girls have so much of a more challenging life here, so they push harder against those challenges.  Three of the boys indignantly said girls lives were no harder thank you very much, but the fourth scoffed as they said so and joined me listing off the many ways girls have it harder here (less opportunity for work, more likely to be pulled out of school, less able to travel, less able to go outside at all, harassment, the list went on).  We convinced the other three rather quickly.

            Seeing an opportunity, I asked the boys what they thought we could do, as men, to help girls and women here in their struggle for equality, but they shot back that it’s impossible to improve the world since God makes its order.  I replied that God helps those who help themselves, then quickly added “and each other,” which to me seems like it would be truer.  This launched us into a discussion of whether this was a “Christian idea” or one that could apply in Islam too.  When I tried to join in they asked what I knew about Islam, so I laid down my credentials and told them about the college course I took and the books I read.  One boy said that American college courses on Islam must be about how bad the religion is.  I told them not at all, and explained that I’d had Muslim professors, Muslim TAs, Muslim friends in these classes, and even the ones taught by non-Muslims focused on Islam as a beautiful and great faith.  They seemed pretty shocked.  This makes me worry about how Christianity is approached in their classes, of the three Islamic Studies teachers at the high school I know one really dislikes America—he has twice shown up at my events and gone on anti-America rants and to him America and Christianity are synonyms—but the other two both seem like they would give a fairer appraisal, one is even a good friend who once delivered a counter rant to the first guy.  It didn’t seem like the time to ask, since they had to go and I wanted to end on a good note.  All in all it was quite the conversation!

P.S. Just so people don’t get concerned about the anti-American teacher, although he very much dislikes the States he seems to have no beef with me personally, and except for when he shows up at my events and says that America created AIDS (at the AIDS awareness event) or that America polluted the world (at my CLIMB kids Environmental Education Conference) he and I are quite civil to each other.  I do wonder, since he never seems all that interested in having longer conversations, if he knows my Arabic is good enough to follow his rants.

Saturday, September 21, 2013

A Better Mood


            I realize that my last post was a pretty huge downer, so to make up for it this post is going to be all about things I really like about Morocco.  Since last time one of my cousins came by to visit, and showing her around my town and a couple of nearby places really helped to remind me what I love about this country.  Some of these things I’ve talked about before, some I have not, but all of them are things that give me hope for Morocco’s brighter future.

            With all my talk about religion last time I think it’s important to lead with another aspect of religious feeling here.  The other day I was sitting in the Dar Chabab with my mudir and his wife talking about different alphabets when they revealed that they can both read Hebrew.  Apparently they studied it for fun for a couple of years while in university.  My mudir’s wife then started talking about the Abramaic religions and how they all believe in the same God, so they have no reason to struggle against one another.  Then she went on to say something I’ve never heard from any other Moroccan.  She said that you must choose the religion that feels best to you in your heart and in your head, and that God alone can judge what is right for each person.  Given how I haven’t felt tolerated for my religious feelings recently this was a welcome message!

            Last post I also complained about how often we volunteers have to contest with people trying to cheat us, or with people just generally making us feel down.  While this does happen quite a bit, another aspect of Moroccan culture has grown up against it.  Oftentimes Moroccans will feel compelled to try to defend us from the less accepting members of the population when they can.  I’ll give two examples from the last few weeks.  Last week I went travelling with my mudir to a regional conference for volunteers and their counterparts.  On our way back to site I went to buy a sandwich, but couldn’t afford the exorbitant price the guy tried to charge me.  After telling my mudir he went off and got me the sandwich for the real price.  Little kindnesses go a long way.

            The other instance happened in my town when one of the boys who is always a jerk kept in character and started yelling at me in Tamazight and taunting me for not following this other language well enough.  A seven-year-old girl walking on my other side started berating him for being obnoxious in Arabic and managed to shame him into running off with a scowl.  It was awesome.

            Younger kids, boys and girls, are always what help my mood here.  Now that the summer heat has finally broken I’ve started up playing Frisbee with them again.  I hope we can try to make it a little more formal this year, but even if we don’t its a great way to get kids to have a little fun and try something different.

            I think that’s all for now, but hopefully in the next few months once work starts getting off the ground again I’ll have more and more interesting stuff to write about.  As they say in Morocco, take care of your head!

P.S. Best way of saying good-bye ever, right?  I can’t believe I haven’t mentioned it before!

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

European Escapades and their Consequences


            It has been a while since I last wrote.  To be honest it has been quite hard to write because I’ve been pretty feeling pretty low since coming back to Morocco from my Ramadan trip to Europe.  The trip to Europe was absolutely fantastic and a welcome break from life in the developing world, but coming back has seriously highlighted some of the intense issues that Morocco must face in order to move beyond this developing stage.  Since this is a blog about Morocco the majority of this post will be about these issues, rather than a blow by blow of the trip and the camp I worked in Khenifra upon returning.

            Chief among the issues facing Morocco is harassment in its many forms, religious, political, and sexual.  One of the best parts about being in Europe was simply liberation from constant scrutiny, judgment, and pressure to live differently.  Not once did I feel uncomfortable for being a different faith.  Since coming back I’ve had to readjust to people constantly asking if I’m Muslim and then pressuring me or even trying to trick me into converting when I say I’m not.  Someone even told me that the Christian faith I profess was evil and ugly.  This lack of tolerance and harassment of the different puts a severe check on the forward movement of the country. 

While in Frankfurt I had the fortune to meet two young men from Cairo.  They were both very left thinking and were supporters of the military coup, which they did not feel was a coup (this was before the massacres in early August).  They were both secularist Muslims, and as such were intensely against the Islamist government, which they felt had repressed even moderate Islam in favor of a more fundamentalist approach.  They felt that they weren’t safe in the streets, one had even received death threats for wearing his hair long, and his mother was threatened for not wearing hijab.  Since the men threatening them were fanatics the boys were convinced the government would not pursue justice against them, and that put their lives in danger.  The upshot of all this was that they’d felt dehumanized, and from there they dehumanized their oppressors.  They seemed incredibly angry at the Islamist and didn’t seem to care one way or the other if the military used violence against them.  To me this shows the dangers of intolerance; these boys hadn’t had their differences tolerated, and now in turn when their side was in power they saw no problem in repressing their former repressors.  I tried to talk with some Moroccans about this, but my conversation with actual Egyptians about Egypt was dismissed in a wave of Islamist fervor.  The wouldn’t accept that Mr. Morsi hadn’t done a good job maintaining his democratic mandate, and because they felt more compelled to say their beliefs as truths then to listen to my different (and thereby necessarily wrong) ones they couldn’t understand that I liked neither the Morsi government nor the coup.  Rather than listen to another point of view people shoot it down and attack the person saying it.  This is a product of the dichotomizing effect of harassment.

There is another form of harassment endemic to Morocco which severely damages its tourist industry.  This is the constant attempt by many Moroccans in touristic areas to prey on tourists.  One of the truly great things about Morocco is how welcoming, kind, and helpful Moroccans are.  One of the truly terrible things about Morocco is how a significant minority of people will attempt to cheat tourists by faking this helpful and welcoming attitude up until the point that they can get the tourists in a bind.  While standing at a map in London trying to get our bearings we talked about how nice it was to not have dozens of young men throwing themselves at us trying to drag us away from the map so they could take us somewhere and charge us a service fee for doing it.  The upshot of course is that in Morocco there wouldn’t even be a map, and the young men would just try to drag you to the popular tourist places, where you actually want to go be damned.  It’s frustrating, annoying, and if there are women in the tourist group possibly traumatizing as the young men harass them.  After almost three weeks of not having these kinds of issues it was really disheartening when our first experience with Moroccans as we left the airport was a bunch of men agreeing to a fair price for a taxi back into the city and then trying to raise it once we got into the taxi.  These actions hurt the tourist industry, which could otherwise be a major shot in the arm for the economy.

The other major issue that this trip threw into relief is the inequality between the sexes.  While there is still a ways to go in both America and Europe towards full gender equality, compared to Morocco the disparity is very small.  It felt safe going out at night with the girls in our group, and we saw women doing all kinds of things that they cannot do in Morocco.  Perhaps the most surprising and strangest thing I noticed in Europe was that it was equally interesting to talk with women and men in our hostels and in the cities.  In the camp I worked at back in Morocco I noticed that, as always, I tended to find the girls much more interesting to talk to then the boys.  Also, unlike in Europe, the young women’s English, on average, is notably better than the young men’s.  I think that this problem is a direct result of gender inequality.  Since the boys face so many less challenges they tend to work less hard, meaning that the girls, in general, have better English, greater drive, more informed view points, and a wider range of interests.  This is, of course, a gross generalization, and there are many exceptions but in the younger generation it is largely true, and would probably be true in older generations if not for the higher levels of repression that kept women from attaining higher (or any) education.

I was hoping to end this post on a positive note, but I’m having a very hard time writing it.  I think instead I’ll just mention that although I’m having pretty negative feelings about Morocco of late the trip was an inspiration to redouble my efforts at development work with my students here.  In the coming year I hope to especially work in two areas, giving students more opportunities to explore their interests, be they art, music, sports, theatre, or what have you, and working with students on issues of gender equality.  If possible I’d like to do this by helping the boys understand the importance of respecting girls and of engaging and working hard, like the girls do, but should that fail with the boys here I’ll instead focus on giving the girls more opportunities to develop their talents and interests.  So I guess in conclusion I escaped to Europe, and as a consequence now want to work even harder.

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Ramadan Report #4 (Questions of Faith)


            It’s hard to believe, but I’ve been here long enough that I’m now in the middle of my second Ramadan.  Like last year, I decided that I would participate in the fast, at least for the parts where I’m in the country, though since I got sick early on I haven’t been keeping it very strictly, especially with regards to water.  This isn’t really cheating, you are not supposed to fast when you’re sick, in fact you’re breaking the rules if you don’t eat while sick.

            Last year I found that Ramadan was a time when people wanted to talk about faith a lot, and this year is the same.  It has seemed to me that for whatever reason a lot more people don’t like that I’m fasting without being Muslim this year than last year.  While the vast majority of people I’ve talked to still like that I’m participating in this part of their culture, a vocal minority never fails to say that my fasting doesn’t count since I’m not praying.  Another minority (sometimes the same people, sometimes others) has been trying to get me to convert.  This happens pretty much constantly through the year, but during Ramadan even more would-be missionaries come out.  I get asked a lot about why I’m a Christian, why I don’t pray, and why I don’t believe.  A lot of times my responses, which are that Christianity is the faith I grew up with, and that Christians do pray and believe, aren’t accepted, which is unique to Ramadan.  Thankfully sometimes other people will jump in and tell the questioners to stop jumping down my throat.  To be honest, it can be annoying but I don’t really mind, I know they’re asking and trying to convert me because they care and want me to go to heaven.

            One day while I was on the way to break fast, one of the town’s old men called me over to talk.  I don’t know this man’s real name; everyone just calls him El-Hajji, an honorific for someone who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca.  El-Hajji has never actually made the pilgrimage.  He earned the honorific through his intense study of the Quran and Hadith, and is one of the town’s Imams (prayer leaders).  El-Hajji wanted to teach me a little about Islam, and maybe convert me.  It was an interesting conversation, even if he was only successful in teaching me.

            He started out by talking a little bit about how God keeps track of our actions.  He said that each of us has two angels who always travel with us, one to our right and the other to our left.  The angel on the right writes down all our good actions, the one to the left records the bad.  On the Day of Judgment they will read both lists back to us.  Then he changed tacks a bit and asked me if I knew what happened in Egypt.  Surprised, I said of course I knew all about the coup, but he said no, not that, and then started to tell me a story.  It took me a minute to realize it was Moses parting the sea.  He followed this up with a few other miracles.  Then he told me about all the unpleasant things that happen to someone in Hell, a fire and brimstone sermon that would rattle John Edwards (not the one of recent political fame).  Then, after asking if I was circumcised, he described the process of prayer and invited me to come to the mosque for Friday prayer some week to learn more.  It was quite the tour-de-force, though the shock and awe approach to conversion wasn’t the right tack to convince me.

            Otherwise not too much is going on, but I wanted to post because in less than a week I’ll be flying to London for my first out of country vacation since arriving last March!